Glacier landing on Denali

We waited 3 days for the weather to clear for a much anticipated flight. The plane held 10 of us plus the pilot.

The small airport we flew from
The plane was fitted with with retractable skis

The half hour flight to the mountain was incredibly scenic. I sat in the co pilot seat

The pilot flew between towering peaks to line up the glacier landing, it was a bit unnerving
Another plane landed near us
Denali , over 20 thousand feet high , is surrounded by 15,000 ft peaks
A memorable experience, not for the faint hearted

Interior Alaska

We drove south out of Fairbanks towards Denali National Park. We left the pavement and headed out the old Denali Highway , the original 100 mile gravel road to the National Park now abandoned. We drove several hours out to a remote State Park and spent 3 days fishing and enjoying the wilderness. There were very few fellow travelers out in these remote areas.

We camped close to the river, we could hear the rapids
The Alaska Range we traveled along for 200 miles
Our campsite backed up to this cold clear river. Signs warned us of potentially dangerous bears .
Arctic Grayling, the northern trout with unusually large dorsal fin
We washed some rugs and cloths in the river and put up a clothes line
An abandoned homestead on the river

Fairbanks Alaska

We’re taking a break for a couple of days in Fairbanks, Alaska’s second biggest city situated not far from the Arctic Circle. We’ve been traveling for a month now and need a break. We’re here for the summer solstice celebrations, a street fair with food booths, bands playing, fireworks. They have a similar celebration at the winter equinox. The air is smokey from nearby fires and unfortunately a fire is blocking our path to Mt Denali south of here. We’re getting mixed reports of road closures. We’re heading out today and hoping for the best with these endless 🔥

Enjoying a fresh salmon dinner by the Chena River, a great break from camp food

Arctic Fox

We were in the Arctic Circle tundra when we came upon this Fox trotting down the shoulder of the gravel road. I slowly approached him and stopped , he was 10 feet away.
He turned and looked at me unafraid , I don’t think he had ever seen a human before
Arctic Fox are pure white in the winter. They molt twice a year changing to red/ brown during the summer. He was smaller than our Vermont Red Fox.

Midnight Sun

We’ve arrived in Alaska having driven 5,516 miles from our home in Vermont. We are struggling to adapt to the 24 hours of sunshine. The sun “sets” at 12 pm and skims the horizon for a couple of hours before rising at 2AM. It’s never dark. We narrowly escaped being trapped in Dawson City by another out of control forest fire, we were the last vehicle across the Yukon on the ferry that before they closed Top the World highway. The scenery has been spectacular.

Loading equipment to cross the mighty Yukon to fight the fires on our route.
A fire near our route approaching our path
A warning before we cross the Yukon River
Top of the World Highway, it follows the mountain tops for a hundred miles above tree line
Top of the World highway heading to Alaskan border,
The fire we approached

This photo was taken at 11PM

Dempster Highway Yukon

We traveled up the Dempster Highway to stay in the wilderness and fish the rivers that empty into the Arctic Ocean . Once we crossed a mountain range with snow covered peaks, we left the Boreal forest behind and entered the treeless Tundra which stretched to the horizon in all directions. The “highway” was gravel with very few vehicles passing us. It took a lot of effort to walk across the Tundra, like walking on 12” of foam rubber. We could poke our walking sticks down through the moss and grasses and hit frozen ground down about 6” , the permafrost stays frozen all summer. Daytime temperatures were in the 60’s down to 40’s at night. The mosquitoes were active at 40 degrees !

Crossing the mountains heading north to the Tundra
One of our stays
Another camp site overlooking a river.

Taking a shotgun fishing, this is grizzly territory

Karen learning to walk on the soft unstable tundra
Watching nesting waterfowl on a hidden large Tundra pond.
Our final campsite
Dempster Highway. We learned to pull over and stop when a gravel slinging truck approached.

Dawson City on the Yukon

We’re in northern Yukon , a restored gold mining town on the Yukon River. It’s a great town to wander the streets, only Main St along the river is paved , the rest are gravel. The road up here was brutal, 350 miles of ruts, frost heaves and huge potholes, endless construction, a stressful drive. We wondered the broad back streets enjoying the architecture here. I’m currently in the Visitors Center, the only place in town with useable internet. Tomorrow we head up The Dempster Highway which ends at the Artic Ocean. I will fish the rivers and camp in the Tundra,It’s bear country (Grizzlies ) so caution will be advised

Ferry crossing on the Yukon. A huge river heading North to the Arctic Ocean
Broad empty streets
Many buildings were empty
Wooden sidewalks throughout town
Most buildings were well maintained
Buildings on permafrost often failed
The town is full of abandoned buildings the town has stabilized and preserved
The rear of this building has the original miners log cabin
My favorite
Bilingual signs in local First Nation dialect

Heading North again

We’ve spent 2 productive days in Whitehorse, got the truck worked on , shopping, laundry and we found delicious Indian food at a food truck. It’s cold here, we’re wearing down jackets in the morning. We’re heading Dawson City today

Some cool early cabins in town
Log church
Wonderful mural on the back of a building, that’s a flat wall, an illusion
Campground has a row of 85 year old equipment used to build original Alaskan Highway

The Yukon

We crossed into the Yukon Territory today where we had our windshield broken by a passing gravel spewing truck. We’ve seen an incredible variety of wildlife along the road: several bear, one mother with 3 cubs, many moose, deer, snowshoe rabbit, raptors, woodland buffalo, and others. We stopped at a natural hot springs, beautiful clear hot water with a soft gravel bottom, what a treat. We continued up through high, snow covered mountains, looked like we were driving through the Swiss Alps at times. We’ve arrived at Whitehorse, the only city in the territory which is surrounded by snowy peaks. We’re going to spend 2 days here doing truck maintenance, shopping and laundry. All of our clothing and bedding smell of smoke and fire from the last few days. We had dinner at a pub down by the Yukon River in an old section of the city. Time for a break.

The road was lined with beautiful mountains
The Yukon River flows through town
Lots of bears around
This bull moose was huge and ignored us
The hot springs, a wonderful stopover
The hot springs are completely enclosed by electric fence to keep out the bears
Electric fence for access to hot springs
We stopped at Watson Lake upon entering The Yukon. They’ve set aside a town park for travelers to leave mementos, there’s thousands of them
Karen reading the menu at our dinner spot in downtown Whitehorse. We had fresh caught wild Alaskan salmon.

We escaped the fires 🔥

They abruptly announced a temporary road opening for a few hours and we jumped at the chance to escape our entrapment. We headed north at 8pm and drove through the HUGE forests fire that had crossed the road ahead of us . The ridges on both sides of the road were burning, more choking smoke. It took almost 2 hours of very limited visibility driving to emerge on the north side of the blaze, it was a huge relief to put the fires behind us. We spent the night on the roadside exhausted with several other RV fire refugees. We are now in the Northern Rockies.

Vehicles ahead breaking as they entered the fires
A hundred of us lined up to escape the inferno
Our parking lot for the night
We got up to see they’d close the road again behind us.